What is Fermentation of Ingredients in Skincare?

Throughout history, humans have practised the art of fermenting various foods and drinks, including wine, kimchi, and yoghurt. Fermentation is a natural metabolic process driven by microorganisms (bacteria, yeast, and enzymes) in the absence of oxygen. We’re familiar with the benefits of probiotics for our gut from consuming fermented foods, but what about the advantages of incorporating fermented ingredients in skincare?

Coming out of Asia in the 1970s, fermented ingredients in skincare have become a significant trend. In the fermentation process, the molecular structure of the ingredient breaks down, resulting in smaller molecules that can be easily and rapidly absorbed into the skin.1 This process allows the ingredient to maintain its integrity but in a more concentrated form.

Fermentation enriches the ingredient with nutrients like amino acids and peptides, enhancing its antioxidant properties compared to non-fermented alternatives. The enzymes in fermentation contribute to soothing and preventing inflammation, eliminating harmful bacteria and fostering the growth of beneficial bacteria.2

What can Fermented Ingredients do for your skin?

We can characterise the efficacy of fermented ingredients with the 3 P’s – potency, penetration, and preservation. The remarkable process of fermentation enhances the potency of the ingredient by increasing its concentration, and the additional enzymes, amino acids, and peptides intensify the formulation.3

Effective penetration is a key attribute of fermented ingredients. The breakdown into smaller molecular structures facilitates deeper absorption into the layers of the skin. Bioavailability, determining how the product reaches the precise cells or structures within the skin, enables the ingredient to work its wonders, resulting in enhanced and more visible results.2

Preservation is an inherent feature of fermented ingredients. Historically, fermentation was a method used to preserve food before the advent of refrigeration, and a similar concept applies to skincare. Without the need for harmful synthetic preservatives, fermented ingredients naturally enhance the shelf life of formulations.

In skincare, ferments stimulate the natural defences of the skin. They prove beneficial for purifying acne-prone skin, rebuilding the skin barrier for sensitised skin, or protecting the skin from pollution due to their antioxidant properties.3 Fermented ingredients can truly work wonders for your skin – definitely a must-try in your skincare routine!