Magnesium Aluminium Silicate is a naturally derived mineral used in skincare as a thickener or stabiliser - especially in creams, masks, and lotions. While it's generally considered low-risk when used topically, it doesn't actually benefit your skin and is often just a filler. Concerns arise due to its aluminium content, which some research links to potential neurotoxicity with long-term exposure. Although not banned, its use is regulated in places like the EU to avoid inhalation risks (especially in powders), and it's recommended to be used in low concentrations (usually under 5%) in rinse-off products.

Benzalkonium chloride (BAC) is a common ingredient in personal care products that acts as a preservative and cleanser. While it helps extend shelf life and remove dirt, BAC can be irritating. It may cause dryness, redness, and allergic reactions on the skin, eyes, and respiratory system. Long-term use might also weaken the skin’s natural defences. Consider opting for gentler alternatives if you have sensitive skin or concerns about irritation.

While Benzyl Alcohol helps keep cosmetics fresh by fighting bacteria, it can be drying for some. This dryness may weaken the skin’s barrier, leading to increased sensitivity and irritation. In some cases, contact dermatitis or allergic reactions can occur. If you have sensitive skin, be mindful of products containing benzyl alcohol and always perform a patch test before introducing products containing benzyl alcohol into your skincare routine.

Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) is a common preservative used in cosmetics, food, and pharmaceuticals to extend shelf life by preventing fat and oil spoilage, potential health risks are a growing concern. Classified as a possible human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), BHA is an endocrine disruptor and has also been linked to kidney and liver damage in animal studies. It can also cause skin irritation and allergies in some people. Due to these concerns, the EU, Canada, Australia, and Japan have implemented strict guidelines and limitations on BHA concentration in cosmetics.

While cyclic siloxanes, specifically D3 (cyclotetrasiloxane), D4 (cyclopentasiloxane), D5 (cyclohexasiloxane), and D6 (cyclohexylsiloxane), create that silky feel you love in skincare, they raise environmental concerns. These ingredients are flagged for potential bioaccumulation and persistence in the environment. On the safety side, some studies suggest potential skin irritation and even endocrine disruption with D5. Following these concerns, the EU has restricted D4 & D5 concentrations above 0.1% in rinse-off products, and Canada has classified D4 & D5 as toxic, limiting their use in cosmetics.

While Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB), also known as Uvinul A Plus, is a common sunscreen ingredient that absorbs UVA rays, it has potential downsides. It may cause allergic reactions and some studies suggest it might disrupt hormones. DHHB can also increase sun sensitivity and irritate the skin. Like other chemical sunscreens, it can harm coral reefs. The FDA hasn’t approved DHHB for sunscreens, and stricter regulations exist in some areas due to environmental concerns. In the EU, DHHB has been limited to a maximum concentration of 10% in cosmetic products.

Ethanolamines, like Monoethanolamine (MEA), Diethanolamine (DEA), and Triethanolamine (TEA), are common cosmetic ingredients that act as emulsifiers, surfactants, and pH adjusters. While they offer functionality, ethanolamines can irritate the skin and eyes, especially at higher concentrations or with frequent use. In some individuals, they may even trigger allergic reactions. A more concerning issue is their potential to form nitrosamines, known carcinogens, when interacting with nitrosating agents sometimes present in cosmetics. Due to this risk, several regulatory bodies have taken action. Health Canada has banned DEA completely, while the EU and Japan restrict its use and classify it as a substance of very high concern. While the evidence for endocrine disruption is less conclusive, these regulations highlight the potential health risks associated with ethanolamines.

While commonly used as preservatives in skincare and cosmetics, formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing ingredients raise safety concerns. Classified as a human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), formaldehyde can also irritate skin, trigger allergies, and cause respiratory issues. Due to these risks, formaldehyde itself is banned in cosmetics in the EU, Australia, Brazil, and South Korea. Similar concerns surround formaldehyde-releasing ingredients like quaternium-15, DMDM Hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate and 1-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bronopol). While not directly formaldehyde, these ingredients break down to release it over time. To safeguard consumers, most countries heavily restrict the use of these ingredients in cosmetics and closely monitor their presence.

Glycereth-26 and Polysorbates are synthetic ingredients often used in moisturisers, serums, and cleansers to improve texture and help blend oil and water. While they may seem harmless, these compounds are often derived through a process called ethoxylation, which can produce trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane, a potential carcinogen. This byproduct is not always listed on ingredient labels, making it hard to detect. Some countries like Canada and those in the EU regulate ethoxylated ingredients more strictly, encouraging manufacturers to reduce contamination, though concentration limits can vary depending on the type and product. Because of their potential for irritation and hidden contaminants, we leave them out of Dermessa’s lineup. Clean beauty should never come with hidden risks.

A common sunscreen ingredient that absorbs UVB rays, faces growing scrutiny for potential health risks. Studies suggest it may disrupt hormones by mimicking oestrogen, raising concerns about long-term effects. It also has the ability to bioaccumulate in the body and potentially penetrate the bloodstream, which warrants further investigation. Homosalate also harms marine ecosystems, contributing to coral bleaching. Due to these concerns, the EU, Japan, and Australia have limited its use in sunscreens and cosmetics. As safety evaluations continue, consider these factors when choosing sun protection.

This highly toxic metal lurks in some products and can cause serious health problems. It damages kidneys, the nervous system, and digestion, and can irritate the skin. Prolonged exposure can lead to severe skin issues and neurological problems, especially harming developing foetuses and children. Mercury’s ability to bioaccumulate in the body and contaminate water supplies means it can linger in the environment and threaten wildlife. Thankfully, it’s banned in cosmetics in the EU, US, Canada, Australia and many other countries.

While commonly used as preservatives in cosmetics, Methylisothiazolinone (MI) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI) raise concerns due to their potential to trigger allergies and irritation. They are known skin sensitisers, meaning they can cause allergic contact dermatitis, leading to redness, itching, swelling, and rashes. Severe reactions can include blistering. Some evidence suggests MI may even have neurotoxic effects. These risks are especially concerning for people with sensitive skin, as MI and MCI can irritate the skin and eyes even without causing allergies. To safeguard consumers, the EU, Australia, Canada, and Japan have banned MI in leave-on products and strictly limited its use in wash-off products. MCI use in cosmetics is restricted and closely monitored.

Octinoxate is a common chemical UV filter used in sunscreens and makeup to protect against sun damage. But it’s been flagged for potential hormone disruption and skin irritation, especially for sensitive skin. It also poses serious environmental risks, contributing to coral reef bleaching. Due to these concerns, it's banned in places like Hawaii and Palau. The EU restricts its use to a max concentration of 10%, but at Dermessa, we choose safer, reef-friendly alternatives that are better for both you and the planet.

Octocrylene is a chemical commonly used in sunscreens and cosmetics for UV protection and as a stabiliser for other ingredients. However, it has raised concerns for causing skin irritation and accumulating in the body, potentially disrupting hormones. It can also contribute to environmental harm, particularly in aquatic ecosystems. In some regions, like the EU, its concentration is limited to a maximum of 10%, but at Dermessa, we prioritise safer alternatives to ensure both your skin and the environment stay healthy.

While oxybenzone (benzophenone) shields skin from UV rays in sunscreens and cosmetics, recent research highlights potential health and environmental risks. Classified as an endocrine disruptor, it mimics hormones like oestrogen, raising concerns about hormonal imbalances and reproductive health. Oxybenzone can also trigger skin allergies and is flagged as a possible carcinogen, warranting further investigation. Most concerning is its impact on marine life. Oxybenzone is highly toxic to coral reefs, causing bleaching even at low levels. To protect our oceans, Hawaii, Key West, Palau, and the US Virgin Islands have banned its use. The EU strictly limits oxybenzone in cosmetics and closely monitors its safety.

Once a sunscreen mainstay, Para-aminobenzoic Acid (PABA) has raised concerns due to potential allergic reactions. It can trigger skin rashes, itching, and dermatitis, especially in those with sensitive skin. PABA can also increase sun sensitivity, making your skin more prone to sunburn. As a result, the EU has banned PABA in cosmetics, while Canada, Australia, and Japan strictly limit its concentration and continuously evaluate its safety profile. For these reasons, many sunscreens have phased out PABA in favour of alternative ingredients.

Parabens are common preservatives in cosmetics and skincare, they fight bacteria and extend shelf life, but raise many health concerns. They act like oestrogen in the body, potentially affecting hormone function and male fertility. Parabens can also irritate the skin and linger in the environment. The EU bans the use of some parabens such as isopropylparaben, isobutylparaben, phenyl paraben, benzylparaben, and pentylparaben due to safety concerns, while the US, Canada, Australia, and Japan have strict regulations and labelling requirements while also monitoring their safety in cosmetics.

While Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) and its derivatives are common in cosmetics (acting as emulsifiers, thickeners, solvents, and moisture-carriers), potential health concerns exist. The manufacturing process may leave trace amounts of ethylene oxide (known carcinogen) and 1,4-dioxane (possible carcinogen) in PEGs. In addition, PEGs can irritate the skin and enhance the absorption of other ingredients, both beneficial and potentially harmful. The EU has strict guidelines on the use of PEGs in cosmetics, requiring testing and safety assessments. Canada, Australia and Japan also follow similar guidelines to the EU. If you have sensitive skin or concerns, you should consider alternative ingredients.

Commonly used for flexibility, longevity and fragrance in skincare and cosmetics, raises several health concerns. These chemicals are linked to hormonal disruption, potentially impacting fertility, sexual development, and hormone balance in both men and women. Studies suggest lower sperm count in men and endometriosis in women. Prenatal exposure might also affect foetal development, and some phthalates are flagged as possible carcinogens. The EU has banned several phthalates in cosmetics such as dibutyl phthalate (DBP), diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP), and benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP). Countries like Canada, Australia, and Japan have restrictions and safety monitoring in place.

While polyacrylamide thickens and binds ingredients in skincare, potential health concerns exist. During manufacturing, it can break down into acrylamide, a probable human carcinogen and neurotoxin linked to nerve damage. Skin irritation and allergies are also possible, especially for sensitive individuals. To safeguard consumers, the EU, Canada, Australia, and Japan limit polyacrylamide use in cosmetics and strictly regulate acrylamide residue levels.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) are common cleansing ingredients in shampoos, body washes, and cleansers. However, concerns exist about potential irritation. These sulfates can strip the skin’s natural oils, leading to dryness, redness, and irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin conditions. SLES may also contain trace amounts of 1,4-dioxane (possible carcinogen) as a byproduct of manufacturing. While the EU, Canada, Australia, and Japan haven’t banned SLES and SLS, they require safety assessments, labelling, and minimised 1,4-dioxane levels.

While PTFE offers a silky feel in cosmetics, its production can leave behind perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and other potentially harmful per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) chemicals. These persistent environmental contaminants have been linked to health issues like cancer and hormone disruption. In addition, some users experience skin irritation or allergies to PTFE itself. The EU has strict regulations on PFAS, PFOA and related substances in cosmetics. Similar limitations have also been implemented in Australia, Canada, and Japan.

A solvent commonly used in the cosmetic and skincare industry, particularly in nail polish, removers, and dyes, helps with application and drying, but raises health concerns. Inhaling fumes can irritate the respiratory system and toluene’s neurotoxic properties can affect the nervous system. Exposure during pregnancy may harm the foetus and direct contact can irritate the skin. The EU bans toluene in children’s nail products and maximum concentration restrictions are in place for others. Australia, Canada, and Japan regulate its use with strict labelling requirements.

While commonly used as an antibacterial agent in soaps, toothpaste, and deodorants, Triclosan raises health and environmental concerns. Studies suggest it disrupts hormones, potentially leading to reproductive and developmental issues. Its widespread use contributes to antibiotic resistance. Triclosan can irritate the skin and persist in the environment, harming aquatic life. Due to these concerns, the EU has banned Triclosan in cosmetics, and the FDA has banned triclosan in over-the-counter antiseptic washes, including liquid, foam, and gel hand soaps, as well as bar soaps and body washes. Australia, Canada, and Japan also have limitations and stricter labelling requirements.